I first visited in Greenland in 1993 and we paddled the coast from Sisimiut to Ilulissat, the start of a long term relationship, with the large northern island. I have returned many times over the years, to paddle different sections of the coast, but this year was looking forward to stand up paddleboarding in the waters of Disko Bay. It actually felt quite adventurous with quite a few other paddlers expressing surprise at our plans.
10 of us from the Jersey Canoe Club were due to start from Ilulissat on Saturday 3rd August. In common with most people who visit Greenland we were transiting through Copenhagen, catching the early morning Air Greenland flight on the 2nd August. 6 enthusiastic paddlers congregated at Jersey Airport just after 07.00 on the 1st August, our flight was due to leave at 09.25 to Heathrow, connecting with the 13.15 to Copenhagen where we were due to join 2 other members of the group. The plan was to have a few beers, at the hotel, chat about the trip and head to the airport at 06.30 on the 2nd to catch our flight to Greenland.
The 6 of us in Jersey checked in our luggage, headed to the lounge for breakfast, aware that our flight was already on its way from Heathrow. As we poured coffee and selected croissants I became aware that visibility was dropping, in fact we couldn’t see the runway. Time to fire up the Flightradar24 app. Our aircraft was over Jersey, unfortunately at 10,000 feet and going round in circles. Friends and family started to send messages and photographs of the sunshine, which seemed to exist all over Jersey, apart from one small patch of fog positioned over the airport.
Our positive expectations of earlier were rapidly evaporating. Conversations with people I knew, at the airport, revolved around where their next flight from Heathrow was going and a growing realisation that making the connections was becoming less likely. I watched the flight (on my App) circle above Jersey, for an hour, before calling it a day and heading back to Heathrow. This was followed by the inevitable announcement that our flight was cancelled. We needed to collect our luggage and head into departures to re-book.
4 of us were offered flights to London at 17.30 and the other 2 at 18.30 but all flights to Copenhagen were full for the rest of the day. We couldn’t get to the Danish capital before our Greenland flight departed. Check other airlines, all full. Check Air Greenland, firstly we had non-changeable tickets and secondly they didn’t have space to Ilulissat for 9 days. Approximately 2 hours after we arrived at Jersey Airport, full of expectation, we stood in front of the same terminal full of despair. 9 months of planning and expectation and we weren’t going.
The other 4 paddlers have made it to Ilulissat, although not without their own problems, flights overbooked, stuck in Kangerlussuaq for a night etc. As I write these words they are due to start their journey along the coast north from Ilulissat in 4 hours time. In the next 8 days I am sure that they will have an amazing stand up paddle boarding trip in the Arctic environment.
For those of us who didn’t make the journey it was important to minimise the impact, both financially and emotionally as we had invested so much time and energy in putting the trip together. The first thing that springs to mind is insurance, once British Airways cancelled the flight things were clear. We were entitled to a refund on the flights to Copenhagen, you just had to navigate the appalling customer support at British Airways. After 2 hours on the phone the refund was confirmed in 7 to 10 working days. Funnily enough they don’t allow me 7 to 10 working days to pay them.
The hotels in Copenhagen were superb, we were booked into the Comfort Hotel (at the airport) on the way there and back. I was able to cancel that booking without financial loss. The Hotel Nuka in Ilulissat also, very generously, allowed us to cancel as did the Best Western in Ilulissat. All that left to claim for, was our flights on Air Greenland and our share of the boat shuttle north. Early communication with the insurance company ensured that the claim is being processed and we should receive a refund.
It would have been easy to sit at home and wallow in self pity but these things happen. It was beyond our control, we have no influence over the weather, so just accept the disappoinment and go paddling in our home waters. The seas around Jersey have been our playground for a number of years and with a couple of days of good weather in the forecast we have planned some quality paddles. Ok is not where we expected to be, just a few days ago, but its better than staying on the settee.
So sorry for your group Kevin… it did happen to one of my team too in July, its first flight from Paris to Copenhaguen has been cancelled on the very late minutes. Then he has been lucky to get another flight 2 days later.
Another French team get stuck 5 days on their way to Upernavik, fog has made travelling really complicated in June and July 2024.
Our conclusion was that we needed to allow more time for travelling until our starting point Upernavik.
I do admire your philosophy character, which seems to allow you to get over any frustration easily.
Best wishes for a very pleasant trip in your area, l am sure you’re going to make the most of it.